When the Royal Family gathered for the final performance of Queen Elizabeth II’s 90th birthday celebrations at Windsor Castle in 2016, the show featured no fewer than 900 horses and stars such as Oscar-winning actress Dame Helen Mirren, pop star Kylie Minogue and classical singer Katherine Jenkins.
Two of the most eye-catching figures were, however, watching in the stands.
Princes William and Harry attracted much attention that evening in May because, like their grandfather Prince Philip, they were wearing their striking ‘Windsor uniforms’.
Designed to demonstrate loyalty, the matching navy and red coats are a historic piece of regalia introduced by ‘mad’ King George III more than 200 years ago which are still worn by senior Royals at Windsor Castle today.
Created in 1777, the original version featured heavy gold braiding and a bicorne hat trimmed with ostrich feathers, which George III demanded all of his courtiers and ministers wear.
The version that exists today is markedly simpler: a plain navy tailcoat with red facings.
Prince William and Prince Harry in the Windsor uniform at the Queen’s 90th, with Countess Floria Franziska
This week, the Windsor uniform made another appearance for the state banquet in honour of French president Emmanuel Macron. King Charles, Prince Edward and Vice Admiral Sir Timothy Laurence, husband of Princess Anne, all wore the uniform with pride.
William, however, chose a different outfit. Instead of co-ordinating with his father, the heir to the throne chose to wear white tie.
This was, I am told, no accident.
‘His Royal Highness dressed appropriately, but does not need to match his father on all occasions,’ a courtier told me. ‘It’s no secret that William does not feel hidebound by tradition. He respects tradition, but does not believe that we always have to follow it.’
Given that William was prepared to wear the uniform for his beloved grandmother, it could be seen as an act of rebellion that he chose not to put it on now his father is on the throne.
But it is not the first time William has demonstrated his unease with some of the more antiquated sartorial traditions maintained by the King.
King Charles, in his Windsor lapels, with Queen Camilla, French president Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte Macron on July 8 at the state banquet
Prince William arrives in white tie rather than the Windsor uniform with Catherine, Princess of Wales. Behind, Anne, Princess Royal, and Prince Edward with red lapels
For example, when His Majesty hosted a reception for the Diplomatic Corps at Buckingham Palace last November, he wore white tie with traditional knee breeches and buckled shoes. William, however, chose modern trousers and shoes.
The fact that this seemed to be a sensitive subject may have been emphasised by the Palace’s decision to release photographs of the event that showed William mainly from the waist up.
And that’s not the only sartorial sore point for the Prince of Wales.
As a sign of their deep affection for Scotland – where they own several properties including Balmoral – male members of the Royal Family traditionally wear kilts when north of the border.
Yet William – who holds the Scottish titles of Duke of Rothesay, Earl of Carrick, Baron of Renfrew and Lord of the Isles, and is of course the heir to the Scottish throne – has not been seen in a kilt since he was a little boy.
And there is no sign that will change.
King Charles and Queen Camilla arrive at the Diplomatic Corps reception in November 2024, with Charles in traditional knee breeches and buckled shoes
William’s modern dress at the Diplomatic Corps last year seemed to be a sensitive subject, as the Palace decided to release photographs that showed William mainly from the waist up
My sources tell me William’s willingness to break royal wardrobe tradition is in keeping with his attitude to the monarchy in general.
‘William is determined to be a different type of monarch,’ a courtier tells me.
They point to his refusal to have any investiture ceremony to mark his becoming Prince of Wales in 2022.
By contrast, when his father was formally presented with the same title aged 20, it was at a pomp-filled ceremony at Caernarfon Castle in north Wales, watched by a worldwide television audience of 500million people.
The absence of red cloth on William’s collars at the Windsor banquet this week may seem a trivial detail, but it is a highly significant sign of what to expect from the next royal reign.
A Kensington Palace spokesman declines to comment.
